FRUIT
KEY CONCEPTS I. Small Fruits II. Fruit trees Planning and selection Planting Culture Fertilization Watering Weed control and mulching Pruning Thinning Insect and disease control   Return to Introduction Return to Introduction		FRUIT TREES Apples, pears, tart cherries and European plums can be grown easily in Ohio gardens. Lack of hardiness and late spring frost damages peaches, nectarines and apricots making them more challenging to grow. Apple and pear trees are grafted onto rootstock that controls the size of the tree. This provides size options to meet specific landscape requirements. Dwarf fruit trees are used as borders, small shade trees and specimen plants. They take up less space and are easier to care for. Fruit trees provide color in the landscape when in bloom and in fruit. ESPALIERED pears and apples make attractive landscape focal points. Tree fruits require a regular care program for satisfactory production. Do not expect grocery store quality fruit without a regular insect and disease control program.   PLANNING AND SELECTION Space, care, years-to-fruiting, disease resistance, hardiness, local microclimate and preferences of the individual gardener are important considerations in selection. The following table gives a variety of information in categories that affect the grower's decision about which trees to grow. Spacing, expected yield and years to bearing Fruit Bearing Space Ave. Useful Rootstock Age (yrs) Per Tree Yields (lbs) Life (yrs) Apple Semi-dwarf M.7 3-4 15' x 25' 150 20 M.106 4-5 20' x 30' 200 20 Dwarf M.9, M.9/M.106 2-3 10' x 20' 75 15 M.26, C-6, M.9/M.111 3-4 12' x 22' 100 15 Cherry Tart Standard 3-5 20' x 25' 75 15 Genetic dwarf 2-3 15' x 20' 25 10 Sweet Standard 4-7 25' x 30' 80 20 Peach, Nectarine Standard 3-4 20' x 25' 120 12 Pear Standard 4-5 20' x 25' 120 15 Plum Standard 4-5 20' x 25' 100 15 Be aware that many tree fruits require two, and even three cultivars for successful pollination. The mature size of a fruit tree is determined by rootstocks and sometimes by an INTERSTEM graft. Rootstock and interstem grafts can influence hardiness, when fruit is produced and how well a tree is anchored in the soil. Apple rootstocks vary in susceptibility to collar rot and fireblight. Rootstocks are referred to by a rating system seen in the following graduated illustration of tree size. Generally speaking, the more dwarfing the rootstock, the sooner after planting the tree will bear fruit. Size ranges include dwarf trees which are 8 to 12 feet fall, semi-dwarf trees 12 to 18 feet tall, and full-size trees up to 30 feet. Genetic dwarfs are a more recent horticulture introduction. Although genetic dwarf cherry, peach and nectarine are sized for patio growing, fruit quality probably will not equal that of standard varieties. Each gardener must examine the intended planting site for microclimate. Frost-sensitive peaches and nectarines often lose their crop to late spring frosts. The following chart presents information about fruit trees and low temperature hardiness. Approximate low winter temperatures to damage dormant plants and/or flower buds Tree Fruit Temperature (o F) Apple -30 Pear -30 Peach, Nectarine -15 Plum -15 Cherry -20 Apricot -25 Drastic temperature fluctuations and strong, cold winds cause additional problems. These conditions can cause bark splitting and death of twigs, branches and buds. Apricots, sweet cherry and peach are more susceptible to frost damage of blossoms. Avoid frost pockets or low spots where cold air settles. The following table provides information on fruit tree cultivars recommended for this area. Note recommendations for those varieties that require two cultivars for pollination. TREE FRUIT CULTIVARS APPLE: Plant at least two cultivars for pollination Cultivar Season Uses/Remarks Lodi Early Summer Pies Prima Late Summer Fresh; scab-resistant McIntosh a Late Summer Fresh, sauce, pies, baking Jonathan b Early Fall Fresh, sauce, pies, baking Delicious Fall Fresh Golden Delicious Fall Fresh, sauce, pies, baking Empire Fall Fresh, sauce, pies, baking; stores well Melrose Late Fall Fresh, sauce, pies, baking; State apple of Ohio, high quality and productive a - Best for Northern Ohio b - Good pollinator Cherry, Red Tart Used in pies, jellies, jams and desserts. Cultivar Season Remarks Standard: Early Richmond Early Productive, but fair quality Montmorency Mid-season Best red tart Genetic Dwarf: Meteor Mid-season Hardy; small, but quality fruit North Star Mid-season Small fruit, fair quality Cherry, Sweet Used for eating fresh, in salads and desserts. Cultivar Season Remarks Emperor Francis July Trees vigorous and productive Windsor July Trees large, productive and vigorous. Firm red fruit. Nectarines Used fresh and in desserts. Cultivar Season Remarks Independence Early Cling-type Summer Beaut Early Hardired Mid-season Mericrest Mid-season Red Gold Late Freestone, hardy Fantasia Late Peach Cultivar Season Remarks Harbinger Very Early Freestone, hardy Garnet Beauty Very Early Semi-freestone, hardy Sunhaven Very Early Freestone, productive Harken Early Freestone, hardy Redhaven Early Freestone, hardy Reliance Early Freestone, very hardy Glohaven Mid-season Freestone Harmony Mid-season Freestone, hardy Cresthaven Mid-season Freestone, hardy Harcrest Mid-season Freestone, hardy Madison Late Freestone, hardy Redskin Late Freestone, late Belle of Georgia Late Freestone, very hardy White Hale Late Freestone, late Pear Used for fresh eating, salads, mixed fruit desserts and canning Cultivar Season Remarks Clapp's Favorite Early Susceptible to fireblight; fruit large and attractive Duchess Early Self-fertile, slight resistance to fireblight Early Seckel Early Slow grower; high quality fruit Bartlett Early Susceptible to fireblight; Mid-season high quality fruit Beurre Bosc Mid-season Somewhat resistant to fireblight and productive Plums Cultivar Season Remarks Italian prune Mid-season Large, vigorous, productive trees; fruit fair to good dessert quality Stanley Mid-season Trees vigorous and fairly hardy; self-fruitful and good pollinator Reine Claude (Green Gage) Mid-season Trees productive; fruit greenish-yellow, medium size and high quality Bluefre Late mid- Trees productive; split pits season The following rules apply to the need for a POLLINATOR for most fruit trees: Apples, pears, sweet cherries and plums require another cultivar within 100 feet for good fruit production. They are usually self-sterile. Apricots, nectarines, peaches and sour cherries do not require another cultivar for good fruit production. They are usually self-fertile. Before purchasing, learn if the fruit trees you select are self-fertile or self-sterile. Many home gardening questions arise because fruit trees do not produce as expected. Some of these problems develop because of lack of pollination. Self-sterile trees require the presence of another tree of a different variety that blooms at the same time. The pollinator should be within 100 feet. Bees are the primary pollinator, so every effort should be made not to use insecticides during pollination. Trees grafted with multiple cultivars are often marketed. These novelties may or may not include the appropriate pollinators. Select trees from reputable nurseries that offer high quality stock. Avoid plants offered by friends or neighbors. These plants can harbor diseases. Do not try to grow trees from seed; they do not produce true to cultivar. Recommended cultivars are produced by grafting. Choose trees with a trunk diameter of 3/8 to 5/8 inch and few branches. One-year-old WHIPS are preferred. Larger trees are more difficult to train and establish. Research has shown that smaller trees bear almost as soon as larger trees. The smaller tree recovers from transplanting better and develops into a healthier tree.   PLANTING All tree fruits must be in full sun to set a maximum fruit crop. Orient rows of trees on a north-south axis for maximum exposure as sun travels east to west. If full sun is not possible, choose a southern or western exposure. Fruit trees are deep rooted, so good drainage of the subsoil is critical to proper root development. Sweet cherry and peach are particularly sensitive to poorly drained soils. All fruit trees grow best within a pH range of 5.5 to 6.5. Order trees early for March or April planting. When trees arrive, keep roots moist. Dig a planting hole twice as large as the root system. Add organic matter to soil and fill in around roots. Add about 2 gallons of water to the planting hole before completely filling with soil. Be sure that the BUD UNION is 2 to 3 inches above the soil level. Apply fertilizer to the root zone based on soil test results. Apply 2 to 3 gallons of water every 2 to 3 weeks if rainfall is insufficient. Mulch an area at least 12 inches out from the trunk to control weeds and conserve moisture. Keep mulch at least 3 inches from the base of the trunk to prevent rodent or disease problems.   CULTURE Fertilization, staking, training, pruning, mulching, watering and disease and insect control are essential fruit tree cultural practices.   FERTILIZATION Apply fertilizer annually for optimal fruit production. Use the following chart to apply the correct amount of fertilizer each year. Application should be made in April. Test soil every 3 years to check for deficiencies. WATERING WEED CONTROL AND MULCHING Keep the area under the trees' canopies free of weeds and grass. This practice reduces competition for nutrients and water. Mulching helps retain an even soil temperature and moisture level.   PRUNING Proper pruning is essential to tree health, fruit production and disease prevention. After planting, all fruit trees should be pruned to a height of 24 to 28 inches. This pruning results in branches developing at the desired locations and generally strengthens the tree. As soon as growth begins, start training branches with the assistance of spring-loaded clothespins or weights. When branches are 4 to 6 inches long, place clothes pins as seen in the following illustration. This forces the young tree to develop strong CROTCH angles. Remove clothespins at the end of the first growing season. After the first year, prune new trees in March leaving four, short branches near the top. In years 1 and 2, remove all lateral branches below 18 inches or below the first lateral. Also remove all limbs with crotch angles less than 45 degrees. The following illustration shows two fruit trees pruned in years 1 and 2. Pruning in the third season and beyond should result in the lower branches being longer than the next higher branches. A central leader should be allowed to develop until the tree has reached the desired height. When this height is reached, remove all lateral branches from the central leader. Cut the central leader back to half its length. Thereafter, remove any shoots that grow upward from the center of the tree. Summer pruning of this growth will be beneficial. Do not cut back any 1-year-old shoots, except the central leader during the dormant season. Peach, nectarine, plum and tart cherry trees are often trained to an open center system. The goal is a set of 3 to 4 equal size branches arising about 18 to 24 inches above the ground. Each of these branches should have a crotch angle of 60 to 90 degrees. The central leader is removed. All growth comes from these branches. This system allows for excellent sunlight penetration of the center of the tree. Directions for general pruning, open center system and espaliering fruit trees are presented in Ohio State University Extension Bulletin 528, "Training and Pruning Fruit Trees."   THINNING Fruit set may be too heavy on some trees in some years. If fruit is not thinned, size, color and quality of the entire crop is reduced. Peaches and certain plums usually have excess fruit. Remove excess fruit by hand between June 1 to June 15, when fruit is 3/4 inch in diameter. Thin to 4 to 6 inches between peaches and 2 to 3 inches between plums. Thin apples in early June to 6 inches apart when a heavy crop sets. This should be done no later than 50 days from bloom time to ensure a more even cropping from year to year. Trees will naturally drop excess fruit, but not as evenly as hand-thinning will do. Some cultivars tend to set a heavy crop every other year. This is a natural cycle for these cultivars.   INSECT AND DISEASE CONTROL Insect and disease control is important on tree fruits. The first step is to plant your trees in a sunny location with good air circulation. Use disease-resistant cultivars. 'Dayton', 'Enterprise', 'Gold Rush', 'Jonafree', 'Liberty', 'Redfree' and 'Williams Pride' are examples of apples resistant to apple scab. Information on disease susceptibility is available in Ohio State University Extension Bulletin 758, "Apple Rootstocks and Cultivars." Sanitation helps to reduce the number of spores that overwinter to infect trees the following season. Removing and destroying insect-infested fruit prevents larvae from maturing to produce offspring and more damage. Insect traps are used to determine when certain pests are present for better timing of controls. Red balls coated with a sticky material hung at a rate of 1 trap per 100 apples will trap significant numbers of apple maggot flies. Mating disruption is another common technique to reduce damage by pests without using traditional pesticides. Protect beneficial insects and mites that help control pest populations. Remember, insecticides should not be used during pollination. A complete list of insect and disease problems, plus control options, is presented in Ohio State University Extension Bulletin 780, "Controlling Diseases and Insects in Home Fruit Plantings.  Common and serious diseases of apples include: fireblight and apple scab. Brown rot and black knot are important diseases affecting stone fruit (peaches, nectarines, plums and sweet and sour cherries). The peach tree borers cause considerable damage. Controls are provided in Fact Sheets 2032 and 2033, Fruit.8 and Fruit.9. A spray schedule is necessary in Ohio for a disease- and insect-free crop. Emphasizing early-season control between bud break (green tip) to 1 week after petal fall controls apple scab, apple rust and powdery mildew as well as scales and some aphids and plant bugs. Early-season applications also reduce the potential for late-season damage from pear leaf spot, mites, plum curculio, pear psylla and leafrollers. Spray schedules for tree fruits are provided in Ohio State University Extension Bulletin 780, "Controlling Diseases and Insects in Home Fruit Plantings."
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