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WOODY ORNAMENTALS: TREES, SHRUBS AND VINES |
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KEY CONCEPTS
II. Acquiring Woody Ornamentals
III. Planting Woody Ornamentals
IV. Maintaining Woody Ornamentals
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PLANTING WOODY ORNAMENTALS
Improper planting is a major reason for tree and shrub problems. A correctly planted tree or shrub that is appropriate for the site conditions usually will be a low-maintenance asset in the landscape.
Spring and late summer/early fall are the best times to plant trees and shrubs. Some plants are known to be difficult to transplant and these should be planted in the spring. Where conditions are unfavorable or difficult, spring planting is recommended. Spring planting provides a longer season for establishment.
Woody plants recommended for spring planting include birches, clematis, dogwoods, European hornbeams, hawthorns, goldenrain trees, magnolias, oaks, flowering pears, poplars, sourwoods, sweetgums, tulip trees, willows, Zelkovas, raspberries, blackberries, cherries, apricots and peaches.
Fall planting for the majority of trees and shrubs is excellent. The plant naturally requires less moisture at that time of the year. Shoot growth is minimal and is becoming dormant. Soil temperature is ideal for root establishment and usually remains high enough for root growth into December. Stored carbohydrates will be at a maximum in fall and available for root growth.
With fall planting, mulch the soil with 2 to 3 inches of aged organic matter to keep the soil warm for a longer time.
The planting hole will differ for bare-root plants. The hole should be dug so the plant will sit on a cone of undisturbed soil. The cone should support the plant so the flare at the base of the trunk is just above the soil line. Dig a hole that is 12 inches deep and extends out twice the length of the roots.
[illus.]
Balled and burlapped plants and container-grown plants should sit on a mound of undisturbed soil. It is critical that the ball be at the same depth as it was in the nursery. The mound for container-grown plants will not be at a depth for the container because you will be butterflying (splitting the bottom 1/3 of the root mass and spreading it out). The mound must be high to maintain the correct depth. The width of the hole should be at least twice that of the soil ball. The wider the hole, the better the root establishment.
The most common mistake is planting too deeply. The flare at the base of the trunk should be just above the soil level.
Backfill is the soil that is dug out of the hole and then used to place around the roots when planting a tree or shrub. Most soil should be amended before it is used as backfill.
The soil, whether clay or sand, usually lacks organic matter. The soil should be improved by adding up to 1/4 by volume of organic matter to the native soil. The organic matter can be humus, aged manure, peat moss or a combination. Do not use fresh manure, grass clippings or uncomposted material.
A soil test should be done before planting so that lime and phosphorus can be added to the backfill. Other nutrients may be added after several months when the plant has become established.
Fill the hole about halfway with backfill and then irrigate to settle the soil. Then add backfill to ground level and water again to settle the additional backfill. Additional backfill may be required once the soil settles. This process eliminates air pockets. Do not pack wet soil with your feet or a tool. Allow it to settle naturally.
Watering will be made easier if soil is piled around the planting hole to create a saucer to hold water. During the first year after transplanting, irrigation is important. Apply enough water to thoroughly wet the root ball. Check by probing the soil to make sure the soil ball is getting wet. The amount of water applied will depend on the amount of rainfall. Apply water slowly with a dripping hose or a soaker hose to avoid runoff.
Only minimal pruning should be necessary when planting. Remove broken branches and branches that are rubbing. Bare-root plants may require additional pruning because of the reduced root surface. One year after planting a tree or shrub, prune for proper structure and shape.
Trees with thin bark (dogwoods, maples, birch and fruit trees) that may be damaged by sun or frost may be wrapped. Use tree wrap paper and wrap from the bottom up, overlapping slightly. Remove loose wrap and plastic tubes that may be on new trees. Excessive moisture is maintained behind these resulting in fungal growth. Insects may become a problem under loose wrap. Remove all wrapping material after the first complete growing season.
Wire mesh may be placed around the base of the trunk to prevent rodent feeding during the winter.
Staking is only recommended for bare-root trees and in problem situations where a tree is likely to be blown over. When staking is necessary, it must be done correctly and left in place no more than one year. Guy wires must provide some movement of the tree. Where guy wires wrap around the tree, they must be covered to avoid damaging the bark.
[illus. of staking/guying systems]
Two stakes are generally sufficient for trees less than 3 inches in diameter. Larger trees should be supported with three guy wires anchored by stakes placed in a triangle around the tree.
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